When one hears the word,
“Speyside,” if you are thinking about whisky, fragrant and floral notes seems
to make their way into your mind. As is well known, Scotland is vast when it
comes to distilleries. Yet in terms of flavor profiles we commonly think of its
4 to 5 regions and Speyside whiskies seem to be a prisoner to this notion just
as equally as one would think of the peaty whiskies of Isla. However this
concept, that all Speysiders taste the same, is one people are beginning to
move away from. Mortlach 16 Year completely blows the hinges off this
perspective. This old-world big bruiser of a Speyside has nothing to do with
the fragrant and floral, and everything about the rich and meaty.
Possibly the heaviest and most
outspoken character of the Speysiders, Mortlach holds one of the most unique
distillation methods of any whiskey in Scotland. Starting with the washbacks, even though all
6 can hold 90,000 liters of wort, they are only charged with 55,000 liters.
With distillation, Mortlach uses what you could call partial triple distillation
(technically 2.8). The only distillery in Scotland with such a practice, the
spirit is finally condensed using five worm tubs made of larch and one made of
stainless steel – this is where much of its potent nature originates from. And
with this old style of production a spirit is created with a character that fits
perfectly into the Johnnie blends (especially the black label) – which for a
time made the obtaining of a bottle very difficult. So with my wife and I
having the rare opportunity of visiting Scotland last summer, we grabbed a
bottle at the Cardhu distillery before heading back to the States.
Mortlach 16 Year Old Scotch Whisky
Review:
Price: Around £42.00 for a 750ml bottle.
Packaging/Labeling: The legendary Flora & Fauna label. It’s hard to dislike this on any level. You feel privileged to have such a bottle.
Price: Around £42.00 for a 750ml bottle.
Packaging/Labeling: The legendary Flora & Fauna label. It’s hard to dislike this on any level. You feel privileged to have such a bottle.
Alcoholic Content: 43% abv, 86 proof.
Nose: A large beefy nose – think of a
syrupy stew or doughy pot pie. Tightly woven. Rummy with figs, sweet plum.
Palate: Quickly lets its presence be known. Sherried panforte. Soft
fruit cake. Drops off into a beautiful dry finish with a little smoke, pepper,
and ginger spice.
Conclusion: Mortlach has been labeled a cult
malt for good reason. It’s assertive and powerful in a place where elegant and
graceful rule. It breaks all the rules by way of holding on to tradition. Of
course we would love a cask strength or higher abv, but one cannot complain
with this too much. All I can think about is how sad it will be when this
bottle is gone. If you can get your hands on this, savor it. Take it slowly.