"Don't swallow any of that. It'll spoil the
taste of the bourbon." - Larry Csonka
Portland, OR has been described as "Munich on the Willamette." However, the more distilled products from Portland I taste, I am not inclined to think it will be the next Clermont or Aberlour on the Columbia. The newly released Burnside Bourbon from Eastside
Distilling in Portland, OR is a mystery to me. The bottle says it has been “barrel
aged” 4 years and it was “procured” and “bottled” by the Deco Distilling
company in Portland, OR. This all seems very strange to me for three reasons: First, for it to be aged for
four years, the bourbon would have had to be distilled at the very birth of
the company – and seemingly in secret – since past interviews that I have read suggest
a small company that has been extremely busy making rum for the past four years. Second, the bottle
does not say it was distilled by Deco. It says it was “procured” by them. What
does this mean, I don’t know. It immediately makes me think of an LDI product, like
Bulleit or Templeton or even some very well renowned products like Whistle Pig or High West. However, all of these products are, in my opinion, much better. Lastly, the company Deco Distilling is no longer. Its name was changed to Eastside Distilling. All this ends up being very baffling because there is
nothing to be said about this on their website, besides saying that Eastside
Distilling was "formerly Deco.” I do understand that this bourbon was recently released, but I have
not seen one review, or any announcement anywhere about the product itself besides the
company website. And the singular site designated for Burnside Bourbon, which the back label on the bottle suggest people should visit if they want more information, is currently "under construction." (Update: now leading you to their general website) All things considered, this is very confusing. Maybe I am making a larger
deal about this than needs be – obviously if you have to change your company
name for legal reason (if that is the reason?) than it is understandable that you might be behind on some things - but whenever
I find a publicly offered product which has little information to be found about it, and one
somewhat clouded in mystery, I tend to be hesitant about getting even a little
excited about it. Not to mention the price for this micro-distilled spirit (if it is
one) is $24.99 for a 750ml bottle (though the bottle doesn't have a ml amount on it). Let me just ask you how many
micro-distilleries are selling their 350ml (not 750ml mind you) bottles for less than 30
bucks? I don’t know of any. Rogue, another Portland spirit, which ages their whiskey for less than a
year are selling theirs for around 35 bucks, and on top of that I’ve heard its
less than proficient.
On Facebook I did see this photo posted by Eastside (Update: I can't seem to find the photo anymore) of two used bourbon barrels which were said to have 100 proof distillate. So what are they doing? Taking less than barrel proof distillate and aging it for a few more years? Or was that just an experiment and it had nothing to do with Burnside Bourbon? I could go on but that is enough of a rant, what about the review:
Burnside Bourbon Review:
Price: Around $24.99 for a 750ml bottle.
Packaging/Labeling: The bottle is completely removed from the Eastside
Distilleries Rum labels. Appearing to have been made on Photoshop, Burnside
presents a different theme entirely, with no information about the company, not
even a legend. It does say, “Put some sideburns on your face!” which really
confuses me – does it relate to the guy on the label – which I would ask: is
this Burnside himself? Does it simply mean that by drinking this whiskey it’ll grow hair
on your chest? A "real man’s whiskey”?
Well I hope the ladies enjoy drinking this…
Alcoholic Content: 96 Proof, 48% ABV.
Nose: The nose is the strong
point for this whiskey – yet it needs to open up and I would suggest a drop of
water. Light corn, apricot, cinnamon, wood spice, and burnt sugar.
Tasting: The palate is green,
comprised of boiled fruit with corn and a very distinct saccharin note. The
finish barely give hints of buttered corn, cinnamon,
wood and nuts. Water does help some to even out this uncontrolled party.
Conclusion: All in all the whole
thing is a bit rough, never quite asserting itself. The palette is mediocre at best. Something only to be enjoyed with a dash of cola. I just don’t know what to say about
this, but maybe we should all wait for more information about this product. And
maybe more aging. I would just ask the question, if you have the choice between
this bourbon and Buffalo Trace, for example, which cost $20, or George Dickel Barrel Select which is
5 dollars more than Burnside, what would you choose? I believe that shopping local is generally a better option and
I am even more willing to dish out the extra cash to get it local – but what I expect
in return is more, not less – more information, more quality, more everything. I really really
wanted to like this. Unfortunately I am underwhelmed.
Why even consider this product if they are not going to be forthright about the product, not to mention the price. I will stick to Bulleit Rye or Templeton any day!
ReplyDeleteWell, just remember that Bulleit and Templeton are LDI products. A company which has also never been very forthright about their production as well. However, the fact that Bulleit, Templeton, and High West for example, have made it clear where they get their product does help. All those products are a whole different issue. Either way, One should never have to go on a scavenger hunt just to get a hold of the basics. As I said, I wanted to like Burnside. Maybe they simply released it too early, and all the "kinks" will get worked out down the road. Not a great way to start out when your a micro-distillery though.
DeleteCheck out Chuck Cowdery's blog to get a handle on this: http://chuckcowdery.blogspot.com/2011/12/check-out-my-ldi-story-in-new-whisky.html.
DeleteWent on a tour of the Eastside Distillery the other day and got the story behind "procured by". The actual distilling room is about the size of my living room---so they don't have a lot of space to leave tuns of mash sitting around. For this reason, they have to buy fermented mash to augment the on-site production. Every batch of Bourbon is distilled and aged on site, but since some batches are made from mash procured from other producers they have to add the "procured by" to the label.
ReplyDeleteAs for the 4 year aging process---the people behind Eastside have actually been in commercial business for 9 years so they've had more than enough time to create a 4 year old Bourbon.
I don't buy that story at all. There are many other distilleries which buy fermented mash either from wineries (brandy makers typically buy wine, not must) or breweries and don't have to label things 'procured'.
ReplyDeleteI appreciate the education, but if you had read ANY of my blog you would understand that the issue is not that they are sourcing their product from somewhere else. Sure, many distilleries, wineries, etc don't label their product as procured, but the really good ones do - especially in the wine community, in which you seem to know so much about. What I am pointing at is the distinction between distilleries such as High West or Whistle Pig and those of East Side Distilling company. I don't understand, why, if they are putting out seemingly good rum products (which they have completely re-branded form some reason), that they go and do this? I look at Burnside Bourbon and I see a product almost entirely removed from their other products. They are not being forthright on the fact that they are blenders when it comes to their bourbon - and in my view, this needs to change in the industry. If you are a micro-distiller, being transparent is even more of an issue. The problem here is less about the intrinsic quality of the product and more about the marketing and image being pushed. If you want your product to be a CRAFT product, then don't try and make a campaign like the Kraken Spiced Rum - consumers are smarter than that.
DeleteNo, I'm with you! I meant I don't buy the story from the post above mine. I am all for clear labeling laws, and pretty damn tired of micro distilleries relabeling/rebranding products.
DeleteWell I take back what I said then. I misunderstood you. Appreciate the correction.
DeleteFor someone else's opinion: http://www.wweek.com/portland/article-19338-burnside_bourbon_%28eastside_distilling%29.html
ReplyDeleteI got excited when a liquor store clerk told me about a new Indiana bourbon called Spring Mill. The bourbon was supposedly produced by a distiller in Indianapolis. A little digging revealed it as just another MGP/LDI product. My excitement died. Don't know why but it just doesn't excite me to think about any product produced by a "bulk distiller." I drink Bulleit Rye and think it's fine.
ReplyDeleteI really like this bourbon! I'm a die hard Jim Beam fan and I love the smooth taste and bite that comes form Burnside Bourbon! At first I was a little taken back but now I'm a fan! My only gripe is the price, but it's understandable because of how small the distillery is and the small amount that can be made at a time. Otherwise I'm very pleased with this product and anytime it's being sold I buy it over my beloved Jim Beam.
ReplyDelete-Ricky V.
The price has nothing to do with the amount made. They are not making the bourbon themselves. They are buying it from someone else - possibly a much larger producer. I'm actually confused about the price because most sourced products are much higher than $25 range. Not sure what is going on. Ultimately you need to drink what your palate tells you is good. I find that I can get Jim Beam Black - an 8 year old product at much lower cost and much higher quality in my eyes - or any of the listed whiskies from my post in the price range.
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