There
are haughty eyed consumers in every sector of the beer, wine, and
spirits industry. Really snobs can be found in any industry of higher
end consumer goods. Yet within the world of spirits it would be safe
to say that Islay whiskies drinkers tend to have the largest
majority shareholders of braggadocios. In a way it makes sense.We all
know, or knew, how it was when we first found a taste for the peaty
liquor. At the beginning there was some sort of barrier between you
and that bottle of Ardbeg 10 staring down from the upper shelf of the
bar. That huge phenolic blast that hits you when you opened up your
first bottle. Those campfire fumes you could smell clear across the
bar where the one person has ordered a double of Caol Ila 12. Plain
and simple: Islays are intense, unique, and at times illusive with
their dark bottles and strange names. So naturally when a certain
person at last succeeds at conquering this chimerical style of peat
and smoke, a certain air of pomp
and circumstance inflates there chest whenever they walk into the
bottle shop, so sure of themselves as they walk straight toward the
Islay's and past.... well, past everything else. And for this very
reason I have been hesitant to review largely peated whiskies until
now. I have learned to enjoy peated whiskies immensely, especially
over the last two years, but I have always been leery of focusing too
much on them, just as I have been mindful of how much focus I give to
any style of whiskey or spirit. So at last the time has come – and
Laphroaig Quarter Cask, in my mind, seems to be the best tie in for
an introduction to Islays in general for the blog. The style is young
and vibrant, providing a classic Islay profile, yet the partial use of
smaller cask in maturation provide a contemporary, à la an ancient,
way of maturation, which relates perfectly to the modern day
discussion of small barrel maturation in the micro-distilling
industry.
Aged
about 8 years, this expression is filled in second fill oak barrels
for the majority of maturation, then moved into and matured in
smaller quarter cask (40-55 liters), as were used for transport in
the “earlier days.” Smaller barrels means more wood/whisky
surface area contact and more air interaction as the cask “breaths,”
hence “faster” maturation – but only faster in one sense as I
have explained in other posts. The difficulty that micro-distillers
are finding as they age their whiskey solely in small casks is a lack
of balance which larger barrels tend to provide. But with the
Quarter Cask expression, the younger age in the larger barrel
provides a youthful peatiness, and the quarter cask rounds out the
aging process to provide some “wear and tear” of old age.
Laphroaig
Quarter Cask Scotch Review:
Price:
From
$59.99 for a 750ml bottle.
Packaging/Labeling:
All the necessary information and more. Everything we like to see on
a “craft” expression. Green bottle means there is no need for
caramel color (e150e) to be added. Non-chill filtered. Perfect.
Alcoholic
Content: 48%
abv, 96 proof.
Nose:
Fresh peat, briny seaweed, stone and rock on ocean cliffs. Floral
milk chocolate, syrupy caramel.
Palate:
Incredibly delightful. I think of someone who is, though young, well
spoken and confident. The buildup is smooth an gentle, from a sweet
pepper introduction developing into a a huge peat monster wallop.
Iodine and Smoke. Long lasting peat finish which prickles on the back
of your throat.
Conclusion:
What you get from this younger whiskey is not something overly
complex, but rather a product where its gears are tightened and
oiled. The nose, buildup, and arrival, provide ample excitement and
enjoyment that will keep you coming back for more. This is what a
young single malt should taste like. A successful and well
articulated experimentation of differing size casks, and a whiskey
that gets one excited all over again!
Rating:
Excellent/Highly Recommended