Portland's New Favorite: St. Jack Reviewed

"Eating snails, I thought that was cool when I was a kid. I think that was like my playing in mud puddles."- Chef Aaron Banett

Last night I had a fabulous meal. Living in Portland my wife and I are never short of good restaurants, but a truly wonderful restaurant experience is something far and few between in almost any city. Good food coupled with good atmosphere is great, but good food coupled with excellent service is something unique – the something which will always get my wife and I to return (and spend more money of course). 

We live in SE Portland right off Hawthorne, a district in-of-itself, which is a wonderful mix of socially-conscious families, urban hipsters, and semi-homeless hippies. A melting pot for good cuisine, SE Portland is a foodie’s dream. Now just south of Hawthorne is a small neighborhood district called the Clinton District, named after its stop and go street lined with pockets of small businesses. And recently, just blocks from where we live, a new neighbor has arrived: St. Jack.

St. Jack is a very French eatery, inspired by the revered cafes of Lyon, holding a dual existence as a café in the morning and afternoon and a Lyon Bouchon at night. Owned and operated by Canadian native Chef Aaron Banett (via restaurants in Los Angeles, Vancouver, BC, and San Francisco), St. Jack focuses on rustic “traditional pâtisserie” and 19^th century home-cooking, meaning while you will see such things as Steak Frites and Coq a la biere, you should come expecting other traditional delights such as frog legs, blood sausage, and stuffed pigs trotters.

Right when my wife and I arrived we were taken in by the wonderful atmosphere. Where Portland seems riddled with loud music hipster joints, St. Jack is inviting and warm. The music ranges from Jazz and light French pop, complementing the candlelit space while never does it distract. We came earlier than our reservation so we could have some time at the bar.  I, knowing ahead of time what I wanted, ordered the De Rigueur, the English twin of the Brown Derby, and my wife ordered the St. Jack Red, a Columbia Valley red wine purchased by the barrel and personally produced for St. Jack by Guild Winemakers. Both were great. And personally De Rigueur, prepared by bar manager Kyle Webster, was wonderful - just tart and not overly sweet. To accompany these two treats, we ordered their very popular Frog Legs en Persillade, frog legs prepared in a white wine, garlic, and lemon sauce with fresh herbs. Wow, these things were wonderful, nothing of what I expected - tender moist and meaty.

And this only got better with dinner. The Onglet Steak Frites for my wife and the… drum roll… Stuffed Ducks Neck for me – duck neck stuffed with pork sausage, apples, chestnuts and sage. Now generally I will do wine with dinner, especially when accompanied by such uniquely meaty options, but I diverged from my wife’s choice, the Quady North Syrah, for Buffalo Trace neat. While having bourbon (or any whiskey for that matter) with your meal is something which is only just becoming fashionable again, I myself have not often done this, especially when it comes to French food. But, not to my surprise, Buffalo Trace complimented the meal wonderfully (And Mr. Webster, who followed us from the bar to the table, didn’t skimp on portions when I was in need of a refill). The moist sausage with pommes puree (w/ lots of butter) went perfectly with dry oakiness and winter spices of the Buffalo Trace. *I review Buffalo Trace here.

My wife and I didn’t stay around for dessert (we had a movie to catch), so we will have to come back for that. But it is a fact that we will come back. St. Jack is well on its way to becoming a Portland favorite. With the wonderful menu and great service it is a great addition to the neighborhood. 

Photos from stjackpdx.com

Watering Hole Review: The Pelican Inn

A Taste of London in Muir Beach, CA:

"As soon as I enter the door of a tavern, I experience oblivion of care, and a freedom from solicitude. There is nothing which has yet been contrived by man, by which so much happiness is produced as by a good tavern or inn." - Samuel Johnson

It is a rare thing to find a traditional pub in the United States, especially on the West Coast, which simply because of its age never had a chance to develop its "pub scene." But every so often one can discover a jewel. For example, the Horse Brass Pub here in Portland, holding the title of the oldest pub in Portland and having a sister back in England, South London's Prince of Wales (Which particular Prince of Wales it is, I don't know. There are dozens in London!). The only issue with places like the Horse Brass has to do with those who can actually enjoy the space. Kids and families usually stray away from such venues because of the more rowdy atmospheres. Where on the other hand, for example, many of the pubs in England and Scotland will act as hotels and restaurants which all family members can enjoy. Of course 21 and over joints are needed, but when there are so few traditional pubs and eateries here in the US which allow children, younger ones can miss out on locations which have more history and authenticity built into then. That's why The Pelican Inn in Muir Beach, CA was such a pleasant discovery.

Right off the Muir Beach near the entrance of Muir Wood and the surrounding Tennessee Valley, Mt. Tamalpais, and Mill Valley, with easy access to a variety of trail heads, the Pelican Inn provides a safe haven for weary hikers, bikers, tourist, and locals alike who need something to eat and a good pint to go along with it. Just a short drive from San Francisco, on pulling into the parking lot one feels miles away from one of the largest cities in California. Step inside and you might feel you’re a few thousand miles from America in an outlying borough of England, not to mention a couple centuries back in time. Adorning the walls lay memorabilia of 400 years of English history, while the wood paneling and white walls are genuinely worn with age, rather than simply made to look shabby and chic.

Serving traditional English fare and only providing what they have on their small draft selection, the Pelican has no license to serve hard liquor; only beer and wine. I can only speak for the beer (Harps Lager) and a few small ploughmen’s platters we ordered but I was pleased. Being in the pub rather than the adjoining restaurant the place was packed out with friends and families alike, yet the atmosphere was calm and quiet to the point where I had to watch my volume.

Some might question how authentic a 17th century English style inn off the California coast can be. True enough, but I would suggest you at least try it out. You might just find yourself forgetting where you are, being drawn into the conversations, the laid back environment, and questioning whether or not our more modern accommodations have really achieved the level of comfort and relaxation we desire (or once knew).

Retracing our steps down Mt. Tamalpias:

Watering Hole Review: The Trappist

“Nunc est bibendum.” (“Now is the time for drinking”) – Horace, Odes

A Diamond in the Rough:

Just recently opened, The Trappist sits in the heart of downtown Oakland on 8^th and Broadway. This classically styled Belgium Beer pub and eatery claims to feature 28 rotating taps, over 100 specialty bottle and no corporate beer. Guineas or Fat Tire nowhere to be found, this bar was rated #17 best beer bar in the world, and #1 best beer bar in California by ratebeer.com.

Owned and operated by Chuck Stilphen and Aaron Porter, The Trappist is all about excellence, serving only superior beer in the correct glass and at the correct temperature each selection necessitates. You can enjoy the beer in one of their two adjoining pubs: the Main Pub and the Back Bar. Watch out though, or you might pass the place without knowing it. Nestled into a 1870s Victorian building, both bars feature incredible architecture and woodwork throughout without being conceited, making it easy to get comfortable in the laid back environment.

With no hard alcohol, or wine, beer is king at The Trappist. All the employees at The Trappist regardless of their position are Cicerone certified, meaning, more or less, they are experts in their field; having passed an examination and having gained multiple recommendations from brewers, beer wholesalers, or beer retailers. 

I had heard from other experienced guest of The Trappist that the staff at times can be a bit snobbish, not unlike up here in Northwest-I-know-more-about-coffee-than-you-do Portland, OR, so I wasn’t too worried. However I was pleasantly surprised by the staff that day being more then friendly and spending time at our table to explain any and all questions (very honestly) we had.

That day I had the St. Feuillien Triple 8.5% ABV, and the Flying Dog Barrel-aged Gonzo Imperial Porter 9.5% ABV. I've wanted to try the Feuillien Triple for quite some time, and I was pleased with it despite the fresh and fruity makeup of the drink. Generally I am not too keen on the sweet stuff, but this being my starter beverage, the creamy delivery and light bitterness was great.

My second beer was going to be the Rasputin Stout since it’s my favorite stout to date, but on seeing the Flying Dog Barrel-aged Gonzo, I couldn’t resist. I had actually never had a barrel-aged beer before, and the thought of an imperial porter aged in Stranahan's Colorado Whiskey barrels was at least intriguing, despite my doubts that I wouldn't love it. Matured for about three months in the barrel, strong strains of oak were more apparent than the whiskey. If anything I could appreciate the thought behind the beverage. Flying Dog Brewery has always focused on “experimental brews and limited-edition one-offs” never sticking to anything conventional and the Gonzo embodies their mission. Nevertheless, this is something I wouldn’t have every day, much like a Deschutes beer made with coffee I once sampled. The Gonzo is simply a difficult brew to produce. Beer has an age life, and unlike whiskey, will keep aging once it’s in the keg. That said, being in a barrel longer than most brews are even in the keg, the Gonzo can hardly be considered a “fresh” brew (using fresh in the "tasting note" sense).

All in all, the experience was a good one – from the appetizers my brother, father, and I ordered, the diverse selections of beer we sampled, and the service we enjoyed, this is a place I will be coming to again when I’m in the area.

*Also, just finished was a wonderful patio area which will dramatically increase the square footage and capacity of their pub. They’re only waiting on the liquor license.