For Portland/Oregon/Washington Whiskey Lover

Each year on St. Patrick’s Day McMenamins’ Edgefield Distillery releases a single edition 10 year old malt whiskey. They usually sell out around noon the same day, so if you want to grab a bottle (200ml) get there early. And yes, their whiskey is much better than their beer. Previous McMenamins' Reviews: One, Two, and Three.

Portland's Burnside Bourbon Review:

"Don't swallow any of that. It'll spoil the taste of the bourbon." - Larry Csonka

Portland, OR has been described as "Munich on the Willamette." However, the more distilled products from Portland I taste, I am not inclined to think it will be the next Clermont or Aberlour on the Columbia. The newly released Burnside Bourbon from Eastside Distilling in Portland, OR is a mystery to me. The bottle says it has been “barrel aged” 4 years and it was “procured” and “bottled” by the Deco Distilling company in Portland, OR.  This all seems very strange to me for three reasons: First, for it to be aged for four years, the bourbon would have had to be distilled at the very birth of the company – and seemingly in secret – since past interviews that I have read suggest a small company that has been extremely busy making rum for the past four years. Second, the bottle does not say it was distilled by Deco. It says it was “procured” by them. What does this mean, I don’t know. It immediately makes me think of an LDI product, like Bulleit or Templeton or even some very well renowned products like Whistle Pig or High West. However, all of these products are, in my opinion, much better. Lastly, the company Deco Distilling is no longer. Its name was changed to Eastside Distilling. All this ends up being very baffling because there is nothing to be said about this on their website, besides saying that Eastside Distilling was "formerly Deco.” I do understand that this bourbon was recently released, but I have not seen one review, or any announcement anywhere about the product itself besides the company website. And the singular site designated for Burnside Bourbon, which the back label on the bottle suggest people should visit if they want more information, is currently "under construction." (Update: now leading you to their general website) All things considered, this is very confusing. Maybe I am making a larger deal about this than needs be – obviously if you have to change your company name for legal reason (if that is the reason?) than it is understandable that you might be behind on some things - but whenever I find a publicly offered product which has little information to be found about it, and one somewhat clouded in mystery, I tend to be hesitant about getting even a little excited about it. Not to mention the price for this micro-distilled spirit (if it is one) is $24.99 for a 750ml bottle (though the bottle doesn't have a ml amount on it). Let me just ask you how many micro-distilleries are selling their 350ml (not 750ml mind you) bottles for less than 30 bucks? I don’t know of any. Rogue, another Portland spirit, which ages their whiskey for less than a year are selling theirs for around 35 bucks, and on top of that I’ve heard its less than proficient. 

On Facebook I did see this photo posted by Eastside (Update: I can't seem to find the photo anymore) of two used bourbon barrels which were said to have 100 proof distillate. So what are they doing? Taking less than barrel proof  distillate and aging it for a few more years? Or was that just an experiment and it had nothing to do with Burnside Bourbon? I could go on but that is enough of a rant, what about the review:

Burnside Bourbon Review:

                                    

Price: Around $24.99 for a 750ml bottle.

Packaging/Labeling: The bottle is completely removed from the Eastside Distilleries Rum labels. Appearing to have been made on Photoshop, Burnside presents a different theme entirely, with no information about the company, not even a legend. It does say, “Put some sideburns on your face!” which really confuses me – does it relate to the guy on the label – which I would ask: is this Burnside himself? Does it simply mean that by drinking this whiskey it’ll grow hair on your chest? A "real man’s whiskey”? Well I hope the ladies enjoy drinking this…

Alcoholic Content: 96 Proof, 48% ABV. 

Nose: The nose is the strong point for this whiskey – yet it needs to open up and I would suggest a drop of water. Light corn, apricot, cinnamon, wood spice, and burnt sugar.

Tasting: The palate is green, comprised of boiled fruit with corn and a very distinct saccharin note. The finish barely give hints of buttered corn, cinnamon, wood and nuts. Water does help some to even out this uncontrolled party.

Conclusion:  All in all the whole thing is a bit rough, never quite asserting itself. The palette is mediocre at best. Something only to be enjoyed with a dash of cola. I just don’t know what to say about this, but maybe we should all wait for more information about this product. And maybe more aging. I would just ask the question, if you have the choice between this bourbon and Buffalo Trace, for example, which cost $20, or George Dickel Barrel Select which is 5 dollars more than Burnside, what would you choose? I believe that shopping local is generally a better option and I am even more willing to dish out the extra cash to get it local – but what I expect in return is more, not less – more information, more quality, more everything. I really really wanted to like this. Unfortunately I am underwhelmed.

McMenamins' Edgefield Hogshead Whiskey Review:

Complexity in Subtlety: 

"Always carry a flagon of whiskey in case of snakebite, and furthermore always carry a small snake." - W. C. Fields

Finally I get the chance to open up the Edgefield Distillery Hogshead. Rated best in class at the 2011 American Distilling Institute Conference, surprisingly I’ve had trouble finding many reviews of this whiskey, much less very positive reviews.  Obviously, just because some organization says that a whiskey is good doesn’t mean it is, but it should lead someone to raise an eyebrow when all the reviews being read are rating the whiskey as moderate or lacking complexity. Not to mention that the ADI is geared toward promoting craft distilling. They know their stuff and they are not the big wigs from one of the multi-nationals so I would say you can generally trust their opinion.

However, many of the reviews are expected with this sort of whiskey. In the same way Irish whiskey is overlooked by Scottish whiskey, I have been seeing the same trend with the Hogshead reviews. We should always be careful to distinguish between light/heavy and simple/complex. They are two different things and being light or heavy generally has nothing to do with the complexity or lack thereof. Light whiskeys, just like Irish whiskeys, should not be distinguished as lesser than heavy or Scottish whiskeys, they are simply different. Though comparing unlike whiskeys is great practice and should be encouraged, you always need to remember that they are different and should be allowed to stand on their own in their various fields.

Not to mention the same thing could be argued for when it comes to unaged verses aged whiskey and how they are of different categories – though it is interesting to make comparisons to understand the change in the barrel, as I will talk about below.

Edgefield Hogshead Review:

Price: $32.50 for 750ml bottle. Sold exclusively at McMenamins locations.

Packaging/Label: Similar to the White Dog – same positive comments and complaints as before. But I personally think the Hogshead design is more preferable.

Alcohol Content: 46% alcohol by volume, 92 proof

Color: Copper like. Honeyed amber shade.

Nose: The first scent I picked up was a beautiful floral aroma. Green gauges. Kiwi fruit, and light strawberry and banana. Sour green apple which is much more toned down and refined compared to the white dog.

Taste: Arrives with that delightful floral note next to a unassuming peppermint strain which then develops into a lovely pepper note. Smoky vanilla and light black licorice. On the finish caramel and chocolate produces a light fudge flavor. Nice dry finish.

Re-Tasting of the White Dog: The nose of the White Dog changes entirely with my new Hogshead vantage point. On the nose a jammy fruit appears more pronounced. I think of melon, and again jack fruit. The sugary sweetness is more pronounced and on tasting the pepper note once again it is more articulated. The sour green apple which I love in the hogshead comes through more fully. I was reminded of a house margarita and tequila until it hit me - I went to my kitchen cabinet and pulled out Blue Agave (used as a sugar, simple syrup and/or pancake/waffle syrup substitute) and nosed it. Exactly what I was looking for! I tasted a few small drops which perfectly matched the sugary sweetness I was tasting in the White Dog.

Conclusion: Arriving full-circle back at the Hogshead from my re-tasting of the White Dog I could taste chocolate which transformed into to malt, as in malt balls or a malt milk shake. This whiskey arrives like an Irish whiskey but some of the spicy overtones develop like a high rye bourbon, but never over-demanding. Because of this unassuming mild natured whiskey it is easy to assume there is little going on, but this is exactly why I would say this is a very good 100% malted barley whiskey. You have to search in its subtlety.

Edgefield White Dog Whiskey Review:

What's the Deal with White Dog?

"Well, between Scotch and nothin', I suppose I'd take Scotch. It's the nearest thing to good moonshine I can find." -William Faulkner

One of the trendiest spirits on the market right now is unaged whiskey, that is moonshine (or white lightning, white dog, mountain dew, etc). It seems that almost every micro-distillery, and large corporate distillery following in their footsteps, are jumping on the moonshine wagon. Now to clarify, moonshine is technically the name given to illegally produced liquor which, as I have been reading from Max Watman’s book lately, is generally distilled from sugar (more on that another time). But benefiting on the nostalgic aestheticism of a backwoods hooch producers many distilleries are naming their unaged whiskey moonshine, currently the label dominating the US market is being White Dog.

So what is unaged whiskey? Basically it’s the crystal-clear newborn distillate which after coming right of the still, rather than being but into a barrel for aging, is packaged and shipped as is – lacking color and all of the flavor gained from the barrel, the distillate keeps the “base of the spirit” which provides the participant with the distinct flavor of the mash. Where one hears of Vodka being distilled one hundred times so as to have purest and most tasteless spirit possible, the distillers of unaged whiskey are attempting to maintain the distinct flavor and aroma of the spirit, unassociated from the caramel, cinnamon, vanilla flavors, etc., typically found in aged spirits.

Some believe the recent popularity of unaged whiskey will not became a dominant category, but I on the other hand feel that to say it won’t is to overlook the reason its popularity has grown in the first place. There are various reason the trend of new-make (Scottish term) has risen over the last few years but the greatest factor for increase follows hand-in-hand with the Micro-distilling boom which is occurring in the US and abroad. Mainly as an outgrowth of economic pressures white dog has become the first choice spirit to produce for any start-up micro-distillery. Setting up a distillery is a large investment coupled with the long term investment of having to wait for whiskey to develop into maturity. Producing an unaged spirit allows a distiller to have immediate cash flow. If the distillery boom keeps up pace, we are simply going to see more white dog on the market and more competition and experimentation along with it. And Moonshine has always had a large market, as was shown in Max Watman’s book, but the difference today is there is a legal market for it – one which desires to produce quality products to a thirsty population of old and new whiskey drinkers who are wanting something new, as well as wanting a way to connect with the past legacy of American moonshiners.
 
On reading a New York Times article on moonshine, there was an interview of an unnamed moonshine hobbyist of 30 years. He states that he has been “telling people for years that they have to taste [unaged whiskey], so that when they taste [aged] whiskey, they can find their way around the inside of their mouth.” Unaged whiskey can provide something the general public has had little access to: a whiskey that can be a teacher and a transition spirit into other aged whiskeys. One which can actually allow them to taste and follow the change which is made through the barrel. This first tasting I am providing is one such example. With the Edgefield distillers presenting this fairly new White Dog Whiskey to the public, one can taste a unique whiskey in its own right while also having a great comparison for their Hogshead Whiskey, since the White Dog is simply the unaged version of it.

Edgefield White Dog Review:

Price: $17.50 for a 375ml bottle. Sold exclusively at McMenamins locations.

Packaging/Label: Straight of the shelf, there is no box or excess packaging. The label is simple, yet holding the McMenamins artistic flair as always. On a small note the material of label feels a bit cheap to the touch, but overall not a big issue. There is a plastic wrap on the top cap which seems unnecessary since they have a sticker/seal strip over the bartop cork. Synthetic cork (the more I read on these the less I am convinced they are a better alternative to corks in terms of their environmental impact) however I don’t feel they take away from the aesthetic appeal.

Alcohol Content: 46% alcohol by volume, 92 proof

Color: Clear and oily.

Nose: Upon the first nosing I was very surprised by how strongly the barley stood out while the alcohol note was subtle to the point that I could breathe deeply without being hit in the face. A sourdough flavor rises quickly but settles down into something more yeasty. Hints of banana and citrus. Green gauges, unripe apple, bitter grapes, and bitter rice wine and some floral notes. Dark chocolate - very dark. I was still quite baffled by the nose until jackfruit came to mind. Most likely, if you have never been to India or some other southeast Asian country, you have never tasted jackfruit. It's similar to a tart banana  and smells... well, it’s very unique. Think Juicy Fruit.

Taste: What a transition from the nose to the first taste – it is only upon tasting it does the real whiskey overtones come out. Unripened, fresh Brazilian nut and possibly a hint of pistachio. I think of fresh green bark or the inside of a fresh twig when split in half. Cereal grains. Raisin Brand, yet unripe raisins. Mild hints of banana and citrus nuances which were found in the nose. The texture comes off oily yet ends grainy and dry. The light burn settles on the tongue and not in the back of the throat which warms ever so slightly as you swallow.

Conclusion: Honestly, I am still quite undecided about it. I defiantly enjoyed the tasting compared to the nose, which confuses me more than anything. I don’t think I would designate this a place on my “relaxing time” shelf. I still feel that I need to give it another go. I haven’t yet tried adding water, nor have I let it sit very long to open up which could be a significant factor in allowing some of the harshness to die down. I am very interested in trying this in a cocktail since it has such a great texture and because there are so many great unaged spirit cocktail recipes floating around these days. Another update will be needed.